Rabbits

Vaccinations

There are two fatal diseases in rabbits that can be protected against by vaccination.

1) MYXOMATOSIS

This is transmitted by direct contact with infected rabbits or by fleas or mosquitoes. All rabbits are at risk.

This very common disease starts as swollen red eyelids gradually getting worse with rabbits becoming very ill and dying within one or two weeks.

There is no treatment.

Prevention - Vaccination can be started from 6 weeks old and needs repeating every 6 to 12 months. Vaccination provides no gaurentee against the disease, but it will reduce the risk.

2) V.H.D.

This is a relatively new, and as yet rare, but equally fatal disease.

Rabbits can be infected and die within 12 hours.

There is no treatment.

Prevention – You can protect your rabbit by yearly vaccination, which can start from 12 weeks old.

Internal parasites

1. Encephalitozoon Cuniculi (E.Cuniculi) is a microscopic parasite that can cause signs including head tilt, hind limb weakness, fits, kidney disease or even blindness. In some cases, infected rabbits may die. It primarily affects rabbits but can affect other species including birds and even immunosuppressed humans!

2. Intestinal worms. Can sometimes lead to skin irritation around the anus leading to self trauma.

Prevention – Both of the above can be controlled by using PANACUR PASTE for rabbits. Routine dosing should be administered 2-4 times a year.

Fly Strike

This is common and mainly a summer time condition.

Flies are attracted to soiled, wet areas of the rabbits skin and lay eggs which quickly hatch into flesh eating maggots. If this is noticed in the early stages removal of maggots and treatment is usually effective.

This is mainly a condition of fat, overfed rabbits or those housed in dirty conditions.

Prevention Tips

1) Regularly clean out the hutch
2) Don’t over feed your rabbit
3) Check your rabbit (especially around its bottom) twice a day particularly in warm summer weather
4) Chemical prevention - if your rabbit is likely to be prone to fly strike (eg- soiled bottom) there is a spot–on product available.

Please ask for details.

Neutering

Spaying or castrating your rabbit can reduce aggressive behaviour and, prevent unwanted litters. It also means that rabbits can be kept in pairs or groups providing they get along. Neutering will increase the chances of a happy pair or group. This also ensures that testicular and uterine tumours (common in older female rabbits) cannot develop in later life.

The operation can be done at this Surgery under general anaesthetic. We like to point out that every anaesthetic carries a slight risk and we do offer an optional pre-anaesthetic blood screen which can show up certain internal problems that would make the anaesthetic more risky.

Insurance

Rabbit insurance is now available and we would recommend that every owner considers having a policy for their pet rabbit.

Treatment, veterinary procedures and all the specialised equipment needed can be costly, so having your rabbit insured will help with unexpected vet bills and will ensure we can offer the best veterinary care.

Feeding

A large proportion of rabbit health problems stem from overfeeding rabbit foods.

The most important thing in keeping a rabbit healthy is a correct diet. This is:

1) Hay
2) Fresh food
3) Prepared rabbit food.

HAY – The main bulk of the food (about 80%) should be good quality hay, which should always be available. A rabbit can never have too much hay. Put fresh hay in every day away from soiled area.

FRESH FOOD – In addition a rabbit should get some fresh food every day such as grass, carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, apple, lettuce, etc. Avoid florets (cauliflower, broccoli).

PREPARED RABBIT FOOD – The best food is Supa Rabbit Excel. This is a pelleted food in which each pellet contains all the nutrients and vitamins a rabbit needs. This means that the rabbit cannot select certain pieces which they can do from a mix-type food.

It is important not to overfeed the prepared rabbit food. We can show you how much to feed your rabbit. A rough guide is a tablespoon per day for an average sized rabbit.

It is also important to avoid starchy foods such as potatoes, biscuits, bread etc.

Housing

Most hutches sold in pet shops are far too small for rabbits. A hutch must be tall enough for the rabbit to stand upright on its hind legs, and be able to hop 3 paces in all directions. In addition to a good sized hutch they need daily exercise in a run or indoors. The run should be suitably covered on top and around the sides with mesh and a boarded surround at one end.

Rabbits are prey animals so a suitable hiding place should be provided in the run just in case a predator animal such as a cat or dog were to enter the garden. Rabbits get very traumatized if they cannot get to a hiding place at times of stress.

Handling

Rabbits need to feel secure when being handled.

They must NEVER be picked up by their ears. They must also never be dangled with their hind legs hanging as this will upset them causing them to kick. Their backs must be kept straight during handling.

Children must always be supervised, as they may not be able to support the rabbit sufficiently causing the rabbit to kick and scratch the child resulting in both parties being upset.

Boredom

Rabbits are intelligent and do need a lot of mental stimulation. Toys are a great way of relieving boredom. They must be non-destructible e.g. Boomer Ball or hard plastic toys. Also an old yellow pages or phone book gives a rabbit hours of fun ripping it up.

Rabbit Mix can also be put in a feeding ball, which involves the rabbit working out how to get the food out.